Saturday, July 6, 2013

Day 9 - Final day

We have two additional stories that we both agree should have been told but since there weren't any pictures to write about they were left behind.

We're clearly riding the biggest, fastest motorcycles in Turkey.  People stop and read the 1,200cc logo on the side and are amazed at the engine displacement (well, that's what we think they're amazed by... it might be that we're in full riding gear in 95 degree weather and they're in shorts and sandals.)  Note that there are no posted speed limit signs (or at least very few).  It's understood that the speed limit is determined based on the type of road and whether it is inside or outside city limits. You just have to know.  Well, on our way to Pamukkale we were pulled over by highway polis (police). They couldn't speak a word of English but made it very clear by pointing to the speedometer that the limit was 80 km/hr. The best part was when Jon tried to convince the cop that all Turkish traffic moves much faster than 80 km/hr.  Despite how animated Jon got over the issue the officer didn't understand a word and just smiled.  I think we were very lucky in this.  What he did understand was when Alex asked to take our picture together.  No No NO! translated very well.  They let us go with a warning.

And for all you worriers out there - we didn't go that fast although these bikes certainly could have.  Our typical fast speed was between 100 - 110 km/hr.  This is equivalent to between 62-68 mph.  The FASTEST speed we ever did was on the highway and was for very brief periods at a whopping 120 km/hr.  That's equivalent to 74 mph.  We were safe.

The second story waiting to be told was pretty simple:  Alex got ants in his helmet. Basically we had a really nice night in Sirence in the cottage, but as we mentioned it was a bit in the jungle.  Jon had brought the hard candies that came with the check for that night's dinner and placed them on the table next to Alex's helmet.  During the night, a colony of Ants made the helmet their new home.  Luckily, these were little ants - Turkish ants that we've seen typically wear pants.  They're huge.  When we woke up in the morning Alex was quite upset.  Every time we knocked the helmet against the ground more ants poured out.  Can you imagine putting this thing on your head?


For our last day we went south from Marmaris to explore the southern portion of the peninsula.  We figured a couple hours down there and then we'd head to Gocek to return the bikes.

We left at about 9:30am which is a late start for us and once again, we had a perfect day to ride in.  It hasn't rained the entire 10 days.  Heading south provided some great views - here a nice stop next to a cliff overhang.
 
Alex leading - great sweeping turns and more scenic view that are shared when Jon is able to turn his head.
 
We pass some cars/trucks.
 
Two switchbacks.

Although it looks like Alex is trying to pull his head off, you're actually seeing a very frustrated Alex.  You see - we decided to try some roads and villages that just don't appear on the map.  We got lost - nothing unusual there - but after heading in what we believed was the right direction we realized that the scenery was repeating itself.  In fact we had made about a 25 minute circle.  We decided to change directions and take a different route.  After another 25 minutes we found ourselves right back where we started.  After regrouping and backtracking we hoped to find our way out.  You probably won't believe us but we found ourselves right back in the same place.  We ran into a young European couple staring at a map along the way.  Note that these were the ONLY other people we saw in an hour and a half out there.  We think that they were having the same deja vu problem.  We found our way out but we're worried they're still out there.

Our last lunch stop on the road.  It was hot - and although the place was a bit obscure we enjoyed the ten or so water fountains that surrounded our table.

We drop off the bikes at Ride-Turkey Tours around 4pm and the owner took us to a hotel.  We were happy to report that we did about 1,000 miles without a single mishap, fall, injury, or hurt feeling.

Walked around Gocek.  Gocek is entirely devoted to yacht crowds coming into the small but very elegant harbor.  The shops don't sell the typical touristy crap but their high end products come with higher end prices.  Still - most of the wares were original to Turkey and the prices much lower than they would have been in the states.

Kim and Wendy - we bought these for you.  We're planning a night out.

Jon checking out the locally made wooden toys.

We met this leather craftsman and he was really proud to tell us about his handywork.  Really nice handbags.

Alex went nuts.  Food for a 10 hour flight.
 
Both Alex and Jon agree that this trip way surpassed our expectations which were high to begin with.  The Turkish roads are amazingly well maintained and are barely used.  The sweeping ocean views were stunning and always around the next corner.  The mountain roads which came right up to the water provided some of the most technical (and fun!) riding either of us has ever done.  But best of all - the Turks are the most hospitable of any country visited so far.  Truly love Americans, but even before knowing our nationality they were amazingly accommodating and kind.  From a service standpoint they can't be beat.  Every restaurant maĆ®tre-de told us "if you don't like - I pay for your dinner." We both have a lot of riding experience but neither of us has owned the BMW GS1200.  It has a really high clearance and its strange being so high up especially in hard turning, but the bike has excellent handling, great power, and sticks to dirt, gravel, just about any surface. The bikes pretty much took on the worst Turkish roads (back country dirt and all) without the slightest issue. We both rank Turkey a ten and haven't a clue why more Americans don't visit this country.  Hope you enjoyed following along with us and we'll see you Monday.
 
That's all folks!


 
 


Friday, July 5, 2013

Day 8 - Rhodes, Greece

Ok - so before we start today, let's clear up this planking thing that a few lovely commentators asked from us.  We're well aware that this fad is long dead - but the request was made and we just can't turn it down.  Of course, we do it our way...
Planking, old man style.
 
Our unplanned route today included an impromptu ferry ride to Rhodes, Greece. While talking to Hussein last night (the owner of the hotel) we decided that since we were a day ahead of schedule and only hours away from our final destination (where the bikes get dropped off) we'd take the 35 mile fast catamaran ferry to Rhodes, Greece.
 
Since the ferry leaves at 9:30am and we had to be there well before hand including finding the port in Marmaris we had to get up a 6am.  This is us packing the bikes at 6:45am to make the run from Datca to Marmaris.  Another couple staying at the same hotel left 15 minutes before sharing that they had tried to do this yesterday and the ferry had sold out - and warned to get there early. The ride was beautiful... cool air, twisty mountain roads overlooking the sea, and we passed only three cars in the first 30 minutes. One of them was probably the other couple.......

The ticket and passport control line was SOOO long, but here we are on our way.  Note the bikes didn't come with us on this day-trip.  Not allowed.

Rhodes old town is a walled medieval city and is where they keep all of the tourists captive for the vendors to feed upon.

No breakfast makes for hungry men - so we stopped and had lasagna and moussaka. They both looked exactly the same so a single picture will suffice. :-)

Jon is such a shopper.  He bought five silk locally made ties for $25 total. Alex was impressed.  Jon will look snazzy Monday morning. We both avoided the snow globe shops which was difficult because that made up most of them and the vendors are extremely aggressive (but respectful).

Alex owned no sunglasses - now he owns two pairs for $5 each.  Authentic fake brands! Going east or west at sunup and sundown has been painful without them.  After this very bright and beautiful morning they were a must have.

Pictures of us in the old town.  

 


 Must get out of this town.  Note the boiling hot oil hole just above Alex's head.  The city had some nice defenses but couldn't keep us in.

Hum... what size?

Bye-bye Rhodes.  Actually, Rhodes was fine - but it was our least favorite place we visited. It was very touristy and isn't anything like Mykonos or Santorini.
 
After the return ferry we drove the bikes back into town and searched for a hotel for the night.  It's a Friday night, the town was packed, and the first nice place we stopped said they had no vacancies.  So we drove over to the main beach road and tried another.  They had rooms at 50TL = $25 apiece.  We splurged and took two.  The above is what you get for $25.  Not great, but has hot water, internet, and is on the main beach road.

Dinner.  "O'Yes"  Harry met Sally anyone?

The town was hopping and thousands of people were walking the main beach promenade.  Some were dressed to the nines but also entire families were out. There is something amazing about these beach towns. We agreed that the atmosphere is amazing - no police presence but entirely safe and orderly.  Everyone seems to be having fun.

Including Jon.  We stopped at a pretty amazing Turkish version of Starbucks but with much better food.

 

We're sitting here writing this blog in front of the hotel.  Lots of good people watching. Tomorrow is our last day :-( but we plan to do some good riding and then return the bikes before 6pm.

 


Thursday, July 4, 2013

Day 7 - Knidos

Our impromptu route today. We started early so that we could make the 9:30am ferry to Datca. As the hotel was only a few hundred yards from the harbor, it was easier getting on the ferry then it would have been to navigate out of the city.  Checking out took a while - staff was just getting going at 8am.  Bordrum is not a morning city, haha.  The only negative to a perfect morning was Alex's bike which has very little gas in it AND the stupid back tire was out of air again.  We limped to the ferry and we're hoping a station is very close to where it lets off.

 
On to the ferry by 9A for the 9:30A departure.  The voyage was scheduled to take about 90 minutes.

Jon getting his bike secured to the boat.  It appears that these guys have done this before.

We had to hurry up and pick a seat before the hoards or travelers board.

Leaving Bodrum......bikes on-board.

Jon had to stay in the center of the boat to prevent it from listing to one side.

Once again we're worried about Alex's rear tire.  It lost more air overnight (despite yesterday's fix) so we purchased "fix a flat" which was the American can with Turkish directions taped over the English.  Luckily, Jon has good thumbnails.

Alex chewing on the mic

Ponch from CHIPS.  Look how happy he is.

Views like this all day.  That's why we're happy.

 
Our friend Baris.  He's on a 20 day trip from Istanbul....alone.  Just him and a tent.   He joined us for a great ride and a good lunch in Knidos.  Knidos is on the most Western tip of Turkey's southern peninsula.  There is noting else there - one place to eat and dilapidated Roman housing.

One lane roads (with two way traffic)... no guard rails = fun
Beautiful water
Alex is actually panicking in this shot because Jon has disappeared to take the picture and his last words were "slow down".

We arrive in Knidos.  Have to park the bikes here and walk down to the harbor.  There was a ticket booth right next to the walk down so we bought tickets.  Later we learned the tickets were for entry to the Roman ruins.  The free access to the restaurant cost us 8 TR each.
 
 
This was a typical ride from today.  Beautiful coast, lots of switchbacks, turquoise water, loved it.
 
We went off the beaten track here and stumbled upon this scene at the bottom of a very steep hill.
 
Our typical issue when faced with two ways to go and no signs.
 
Rush hour in a Turkish village.
 
The only restaurant in Knidos - actually the only building in Knidos.

Get a job, Jon.

Something about getting to the top makes us want to put our hands in the air.

 
After our awesome riding day, we arrived at the city of Datca.  No reservations so we drove towards the water looking for the nicest hotel we could find.  We chose the "My Marina Select Boutique Hotel" just because the name was so fricken out there.  The view was incredible and the room looked great.
Alex is talking to Wendy telling her about another awesome day.
 

Our view from the hotel from 'our' table. The owner of the hotel, Hussein, pays us periodic visits - sits, talks business, and even sends over a bowl of very very fresh melon to enjoy.  The hospitality of this country continues to amaze. 
 
In the very near distance is a Greek island.  Amazing view!


We walked along the beachfront to look for dinner.  Tough life.  Note the changing stands every 200 meters or so.  This is still a mostly Islamic country.

Our dinner table was on the beach and had the same wonderful view.

Alex and Jon's dinner.  Guess who ate what?